Welcome to the first in my series of Make Up Training blogs, now I can share all the skills you need to achieve the look that is right for you. So let's get started.
The new look for lots of celebrities that is very much on trend at the moment is one that I have championed for years so it is my absolute pleasure to share with you how to get the no make up - make up look.
Key to this look are the natural shades used. If you have read my book or been on my workshops you will know that I have simplified make up colours into two ranges that will compliment your eye colour and skin tone - here are examples of both colour ranges:
Peaches and Creams - (Range One)
These colours are more earthy. Bronze, brown, taupe, peach, cream highlighter or coral lipstick... you cant go wrong.
These are fantastic colours to achieve a natural look and classic for the no make up - make up look.
I shared this look with Princess Diana and now with my friend Little Di. I chose range one for her as it will help to show off her amazing blue eyes.
Shown here on my friend Emma - chosen for her because of her fab green eyes. The colours compliment and enhance her natural eye colour making it more intense.
The make up should never overtake your natural beauty... Think heather soft plums, pink highlighter, dusky rose blush and amethyst lipsticks for your eyes, cheeks and lips.
The range is great for sallow skin and Oriental or Asian tones.
If you have brown eyes the world is your hamster! You can wear either range but make sure you check out your skin tone and choose accordingly, these colours are probably the easiest to master.
The make up in the images is available from Bennetts Ashbourne.
Skin Care and the fight against DEAD SKIN CELLS
That title sounds like a horror movie, I suppose it is in a way as dead skin on the surface of the face causes big problems. Just keep this in mind: The best anti wrinkle treatment is YOU. It is what you do on a day-to-day basis that makes the difference and you dont have to spend a fortune either so there's no excuse!
First I want you to buy two things, dont worry they are not expensive. In fact you probably already have them. Nivea, the old fashioned cold cream in the blue tub (please note this is one of the cheapest at £2.70 ish) and some kitchen roll!
You may think I have lost the plot but trust me, we need to get our skin in tip-top condition before we start applying our make up. We are in a fight girls, and it's with one big thing - dead skin cells that build up on the surface of your skin making it appear dull, invariably with blotchy and dry patches.
When I am doing a fashion show or photo shoot it always shocks me how bad some models' skin can be, so I always go armed with a solution to take away dead skin cells and rebalance the skin - and this is it:
So first I want you to learn how to massage your skin.
Put a dollop of cream on the forehead, cheeks and chin, then massage upwards and outwards. Dont pull your skin down and be very careful with the delicate eye area, always massage from the outside in. Do this for a few minutes, relax and enjoy the feeling.This releases the dead skin.
Now wrap the kitchen roll around your fingers to make a pad, hold it in place with your thumb. Now, use the same movements to remove all traces of the cream. Believe me your skin will feel amazing.
This is just one cheap quick fix, I will share more later.
Think of your skin as an artist's canvass - your make up will not stay on long and it will feel heavy if it is not prepared properly. We will talk more about skin care later, it is so important to the look and feel of your make up, honest!
Now, make up... I will show your a few steps that I highlight in my book.
You will hear me say touch blend a lot and this is what I mean:
Use a small amount of foundation (about a thumb nail) and touch it into place - the heat from your finger will soften the foundation touch blend creating our blank canvass to work on.
First step is to understand your eyebrow shape - the frame for your eye make up and so often misunderstood, do my pencil test and get the shape right.
Hold a pencil or make up brush - the first image shows where the eyebrow should start.
Centre is where the arch should begin - the third picture is where the brow should end.
Take care not to over pluck your brows and remember they are sisters - not twins so dont do try to make them the same, just balanced.
Simple steps to a perfect look
First use a stick concealer (Rimmel is good) to cover any red patches, broken veins and spots. Dont blend it in... think of the last of the mohicans!
Use a thumb nail of foundation and touch blend it over the concealer being careful not to rub the concealer off... it's there to hide the bits it's covering.
Never use too much foundation - it must be your skin that looks flawless, not the make up.
Lightening dark shadows
Now use a highlight pen to disguise under eye shadows, Touche Eclat from YSL is good but there are lots out there. The best way to use it, put 5 dots under your eyes then - once again touch blend by using your ring finger and lightly just touch the product into place - in other words dont rub it at all.
Now we have a blank canvass!
Defining eyebrow shape
Use a brow powder, or a cheap eye shadow in brown will do the job - just make sure you get one that has NO SHIMMER in it and get an eye brow brush or old mascara brush washed out and brush the brows to soften the effect.
It's time for the eyes - Eye Shadow Application with a purpose!
Eye make up is not just about slapping some colour on, its about getting the shape of the eyes right giving the big eyed look its impact, clever use of highlighter and contouring, then POW your eyes are amazing. Try these simple steps to create a professional beautiful look.
First put the concealer all over your lid - this will act as an eye shadow base that the powder eye shadow will cling to and help it to stay put, also reducing creasing.
Place the cream highlighter below the newly shaped brow bone using a sponge applicator, peach above the lashes and dark brown at the side of the eye.
Now get a blending brush and blend the shadows - touch blend with the brush so that the colours stay true but merge beautifully together. This helps create that almond shape to the eye.
This part is optional - look closely at the image, can you see a taupe colour in the inner eye and the same shadow down the side of Nias nose. This is a classic trick I teach in my workshops, you should not see it as an obvious colour as it is purely an eye shaper. If you feel brave give it a go but do - blend and blend and then... blend some more!
Highlighting and contouring at its best
This is the true art and power of make up - go on give it a try.
Next is contouring the face or face shaping - I call it a miracle as being a lady with a rather large face its great to see I still have cheekbones once this step highlights them.
Always sweep the brush from your ear FORWARDS TOWARDS YOUR NOSE on the temple and the chin so you get a full face shape. Notice how Nia's face still looks natural but is defined and those cheek bones are fantastic!
Finally a little touch on the nose!
I used Rimmell no 22 bronzer - cheap as chips but works a treat, plus it has no shimmer in it which makes it great for face shaping!
This is optional - if you would like to add a pop of colour, simply use a bright coral or pink. If using range 2, at the front of the face give a big smile then brush a little on your smile peaches as I lovingly call them. Be careful not to over do this, all we want is a bit of a glow not a painted doll look.
Jo Jewett - Make Up Made Easy - The Technique!
The key to my technique is that it is a clever use of colour followed by strategically placed product then used to highlight, contour and shape the face and eyes.
Facial structure is priority so learn how to do that and off you go into a beauty playground that is fun.
Look again at your eye colour and skin tone, decide which range is best for you and stick with it. Your eye shadow, blush and lips must match. If you were choosing an outfit you would take time to colour coordinate so your face is much more important. It is, after alI, the first thing anyone looks at so choose wisely, ask me if you need help - I am here for you all the way.
Last steps, coral lipstick, raisin lip liner and violet mascara (yes violet - it is much softer than black and gives a stroke of difference to your look without being obvious! YSL do a fantastic one).
Done! Nia fabulous at 40.
Always make sure you try the cosmetics out first. Bennetts in Ashbourne is a lovely store to have a play. Testers are there to be tested so dont make any expensive mistakes even if it is a couple of pounds, it is lost as soon as you put that applicator in - so stride out with your new found skill and try before you buy.
If you have any questions feel free to ask me, its good to talk.
In the next blog I will be discussing glamming up your day make up and talking more about skin care essentials.
If you have any topics you'd like me to cover please let me know by just comment below.
All images courtesy of Red Square Photography.Now for the fun bit - application. It has to be noted that this is MY TECHNIQUE and is probably radically different from anything you have seen before, but it does work I promise.